Grand European Tour - Destination Someplace

Back to the UK via Italy, Switzerland and France – Part 15

SSomewhere — Tue, 04 Feb 2025 14:50:28 +0000

Grand European Tour – We Head Back to Blighty!

This is the last in a series of blog posts detailing our 10-county trip around Europe on trains, buses, cars and ferries. All the posts highlight what we got up to (without the boring bits) along with some tips and helpful overviews should you wish to visit the destinations. You can see all the posts from this trip here.

The next day, Rome was, as usual busy. So after struggling to get a taxi for a while, we finally made it to Termini (the main Rome railway station), in time for our daughter to catch a train to the airport, and for us to catch the high-speed express train to Milan. The Frecciarossa or Italo high-speed Rome/Milan train is a relatively new route, and takes about 3 hours, reaching speeds of 300 kph. It was a very tranquil journey, you don’t notice the speed at all unless you are running parallel to an autostrada for a while and realize how quickly you are passing the nearby cars.

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USEFUL RESOURCES – EUROPE

Accommodation: Booking.com

Activities: Get Your Guide

Flights: Skyscanner

Trains: Rail Europe

Bus: FlixBus

Car Hire: AutoEurope

Milan – Highs and Lows

On arriving in Milan, the first thing that hits you is how awesome the railway station is. On this trip, we had visited a lot of railway stations – the good, the bad and the ugly. Milan railway station, is, without any exaggeration, a beautiful building. It blew us away.

On leaving the station, we realised we were hungry, and made a schoolboy error – the one where you end up going to the first place you came across! On this occasion, it turned out to be touristy, expensive (even for Milan!), a bit pushy, and had mediocre food. By the time we ordered, we had realised our mistake – but obviously, it was too late by then.

To compound our mild irritation, we watched as the waiters tried to drag in every passing tourist, whilst at the same time informing the people who wished to pay that it was cash only, as their credit card machine was on the blink – this was irritating a lot of the tourists, who understandably (especially in a post-pandemic world) would want to pay with credit card. Maybe we’re a bit picky – but good customer service would have informed prospective diners of the credit card issues before they ordered.

We were in a similar position, with very little cash on us, so after checking the credit card machine really was on the blink we decided to pay with the only note we had on us, a 50 euro note (to pay for our 2 sandwiches and 2 small beers). Unfortunately, it turned out to be a forgery. So Barbara had to trot off to find an ATM, while I was held hostage at the restaurant (only kidding). Anyway, it wasn’t the most auspicious start to our overnight in Milan.

Our accommodation for the night – Vietnamonamour, however, was friendly and a little quirky and so makes our Top 5 Places we stayed on our trip list.

Google Leads The Way

Even our evening meal in Milan, went a little awry. We found a small little restaurant with great reviews on TripAdvisor not too far from our accommodation, so we let Google maps lead the way, and were soon settled down having a nice meal. It wasn’t until about halfway through the starter that we realised we were actually at the wrong restaurant, the one we’d actually been heading for was about a hundred yards further down the street! Oh well, maybe we’ll try that one on our next visit.

Strasbourg – Small and Perfectly Formed

We were up bright and early the next morning to catch our first connection, that would deliver us to Strasbourg later in the day. After boarding the very comfortable 9.10am at Milano Centrale railway station, we were swiftly on our way through the Alps, changing at Ath-Goldau and again at Basel before our final train of the day delivered us to Strasbourg on time at 15.39.

This was our first visit to Strasbourg, but it won’t be our last. It is a beautiful town, and small enough to easily explore by foot, which of course, we did, at the same time sampling the occasional local beer for which this part of the world is well renowned. Unusually for this trip, we had opted for a hotel and here we stayed at the Holiday Inn Express which is within walking distance from the old town, therefore very convenient for a quick overnighter.

Paris – But No Time to See The Sights

The next day, we said goodbye to Strasbourg and set off on the final leg of our trip, detailing on our Interrail pass that today we would be using our inbound journeys from France to England, which was a similar procedure we had to do at the start of our journey. I must admit we felt a little sad that this trip was coming to a close.

Getting back to England proved to be very straightforward on this day, but obviously it was going to be another long day. We’d toyed with the idea of putting in another overnight in Paris to break it up, but it hardly seemed worth the cost for a night, as we wouldn’t get much opportunity to actually see Paris. So off we went.

The high-speed train to Paris was a little late, but we’d given ourselves a little time in Paris for just such an eventuality, so it wasn’t a problem.
On reaching Paris Est railway station, the signs are pretty straightforward to get to Paris Nord – there are a couple of walking routes, we took the shorter one which includes some steps immediately after you leave the station. We could have taken the Metro but it’s only one stop and didn’t really seem worth it.

Eurostar – Back to Where We Started

The check-in at Paris Nord for the Eurostar was a civilised affair, and the departure lounge was comfortable and relaxed, unlike when we’d caught the Eurostar from London at the beginning of our journey. There was just time for a coffee and we were on our way back to Britain via a great bit of engineering and 50-kilometre tunnel running under the English Channel. Sometimes, technology is a wonderful thing.

Disembarking at St. Pancras International, just left us with a short walk across to Kings Cross where we hopped a train back to Yorkshire via a change in Doncaster (where coincidently Jarvis Cocker of the group Pulp got on the same train!). An hour or so later we were truly back up North, and oddly enough the statue of Philip Larkin was still at our home station to meet us, he still looked like he was going somewhere but had moved. We, on the other hand, were not going anywhere for a while, but we’d certainly moved.

Top Tips – Europe

Use Omio to compare buses versus trains, very useful.

For Hotels including self-catering apartments we use Booking.com, where you can filter by review score and many properties have a pay later/late cancellation policy should your plans suddenly change.

Check our resources page for more budget tips and discounts from our days in transit!

The post Back to the UK via Italy, Switzerland and France – Part 15 appeared first on Destination Someplace.

Rome and Bruce Springsteen – Grand European Tour Part 14

SSomewhere — Fri, 24 May 2024 12:30:33 +0000

We Head to Rome to See ‘The Boss’

This is one in a series of blog posts detailing our 10-county trip around Europe on trains, buses, cars and ferries. All the posts highlight what we got up to (hopefully without the boring bits) along with some tips and helpful overviews should you wish to visit the destinations. In this post, we move from Abruzzo in Italy to Rome. You can see all the posts from this trip here.

In our minds we had always had Rome as the end point of this trip around Europe, where we had tickets to see Bruce Springsteen – but it wasn’t really the endpoint as we, obviously, had to get back to the UK. One cannot stay in Europe forever now due to the post-Brexit Schengen situation. So, whilst in Abruzzo we planned the last legs of the journey home from Rome to the UK and at the same time met up with our daughter in time to go to Rome for the concert.

Before leaving Abruzzo we did, however, manage to watch the Giro D’Italia cycle race zipping through our town – blink and you’ll miss it!

On the day of the concert, which was a Sunday, we took a Prontobus from Abruzzo to Rome, as railway connections were few and far between. On arriving at Tibertina, the main bus station in Rome, we got a taxi to the apartment we had rented for the night, which was located about a mile walk away from the concert.

OTHER USEFUL RESOURCES – ITALY

Accommodation: Booking.com

Activities: Get Your Guide

Flights: Skyscanner

Trains: Rail Europe

Bus: FlixBus

Car Hire: AutoEurope

The Storm Passes Away at Circus Maximus

Like the previous few weeks, the weather on this day was very changeable. The sunshine of our arrival soon gave way to storm clouds and rain as we arrived at the venue for the gig, the Circus Maximus.

Minutes after we had cleared ticketing and security, the heavens opened up and a full-on deluge ensued. We were ready for it though, wearing walking boots, easily discarded layers and rain ponchos – not a good look for a rock concert, but it kept us reasonably dry.

By the time Bruce’s second warm-up act (the UK’s own Sam Fender), appeared on stage, the storm had all but passed, and there was a promise of good weather in the air.

Ciao Roma!

We had seen ‘The Boss’ many years ago in Rome (2013 Wrecking Ball Tour), but at a different venue then. Today, we were in the Circus Maximus, the ancient site of Roman chariot races. It is an elongated ovoid of ground flanked by the Aventine and Palatine hills, which of course, like much of Rome makes for a spectacular venue. I guess, because of its shape the concert toilets were a long, long way back from the stage, so if you ever attend a concert here be prepared for a long walk back or have a strong bladder!

Needless to say, Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band were excellent, and delivered over 3 hours of classic music in a relaxed, and for a crowd of 60 thousand people an almost intimate atmosphere – and no more rain.

The next instalment of the Grand European Tour is coming shortly.

Or for more tips and insights on Rome please continue reading below…

Getting to Rome

By Air: You can get to easily get to Rome by air from the UK, as well as via international flights across Europe. The two main airports are Fiumicino “Leonardo da Vinci” International Airport and Ciampino International Airport. I would recommend using Skyscanner to find flights into Rome, and, if you are flexible when you go/return then using the ‘search by month’ tool to find the most economical flights.

By Train: Rome is easily accessible by rail from the major towns of Italy, as well as the rest of Europe. Check out trains to Rome here.

By Bus: Rome is also easy to reach by bus, I would recommend Flixbus, which is a company based in Germany, but serves the vast majority of mainland Europe and offers cost-effective options to get to Rome and central Italy.

Rome: Getting to and From the Airport

If you decide to fly to Rome, here are a few simple options for getting into the city from the airports depending on your budget. They are:

Book an airport-to-city bus: Terravision buses leave both airports at regular intervals and will take you straight to the centre of Rome in about 40-45 minutes This service operates at regular intervals and tickets can be bought at the airport or online.

Take a taxi: Taxis will be found outside the arrivals hall. The journey time to the centre of Rome is usually 40 minutes from Fiumicino Airport depending on traffic (Ciampino Airport is closer to the centre so is usually quicker). Always use official taxis and it is wise to confirm the fare in advance with the driver.

Take the train: From Fiumicino Airport only you can take the Leonardo Express train into the centre, it’s a few minutes faster than the buses, but is around twice the price.

Hire a car: Of course, if you want the flexibility of your own transport, then you will find the usual raft of car rental counters in the arrivals hall, or you can book in advance online. The airport is well-connected to the Italian road network, so you can soon be on your way to your onward destination.

Getting Around Rome

There are many options for getting around the capital of Italy, depending on your fitness level and budget. The public transport systems are safe and efficient.

Note that Rome has an integrated ticketing system which means that a single ticket can be valid for multiple types of transport within the city(including Metro, trams and buses). You can purchase tickets at the vending machines in any metro station, convenience store or newsagents. Note, that you will generally have to validate your ticket with the metro, bus, or tram machine on your first form of transport – don’t risk a fine. For more info see here.

Walk: Rome’s city centre is relatively compact with many of the main tourist attractions within walking distance of each other – ideal for strolling around.

The Metro: Rome currently has a network of just three lines (a fourth is on the way), making it one of the smallest in Europe, and in our opinion, it also makes it one of the easiest to use and offers an efficient way to explore the city. The Metro runs from 5:30 am to 11:30 pm, but on Friday and Saturday, the Metro runs until 1:30 am.

By Bus: Rome has an extensive bus network for reaching the far-flung areas of the city, which you can’t always get to by the metro.

By Taxi: If you are feeling flush, then a taxi offers an alternative to public transport, but it can be expensive – Rome’s taxis are probably amongst the most expensive in Europe. You can hail or find them at one of the city’s designated taxi stands. All taxis in Rome are white, with a taxi roof sign, the company telephone number on the side and a taximeter visible at the front of the car. Rome taxi drivers have a bad reputation, check how much you are likely to pay for your ride before getting in the taxi – so there are no surprises. Uber is now also available in Rome.

By Tram: Rome has six small lines, but they don’t service the city centre very well.

Top Tips – Rome

Use Omio to compare buses versus trains, very useful.

Check our resources page for more budget tips and discounts from our days in transit!

Where to stay in Rome

Here are a few accommodation options we’ve previously used and been very happy with in Rome.

A couple of hotels we like are the excellent Crowne Plaza situated away from the hustle and bustle of the centre but close to the Vatican and the Occidental Aurelia, which is a nice hotel with lovely staff but situated away from the centre (so you’d need to get a bus or the Metro into the centre).

If staying closer to the centre is more your thing then a couple we’ve used are the Dream Station, clean and basic but very handy for Termini Station, or the

Campo De Fiori Relais where we stayed for the Springsteen gig.

The Top 10 Free Things to See and Do in Rome

Rome is a city rich with history, culture, and breathtaking architecture, it also can be a little pricey when you add up all those cappuccinos, so here are our top 10 things to see and do in the eternal city for free.

St. Peter’s Basilica: Located in Vatican City, St. Peter’s Basilica is an architectural marvel. Visitors can explore the stunning interior, admire Michelangelo’s Pietà, and view the impressive altar for free. Get there early though to beat the crowds, as the entrance queue can almost be as impressive as the Basilica itself.
The Trevi Fountain: This iconic Baroque fountain is a must-see. Tradition says that throwing a coin into the fountain ensures a return to Rome.
Piazza Navona: This bustling square features beautiful fountains, including Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers, and is a great place to people-watch and soak in the atmosphere.
The Spanish Steps: Climb the 135 steps leading from Piazza di Spagna to the Trinità dei Monti church. The steps offer a great view and are a popular spot to relax.
The Roman Forum(from outside): While entry to the main archaeological site requires a ticket, you can get a good view of the Roman Forum from the surrounding streets and hills, such as the Capitoline Hill.
Villa Borghese Gardens: Rome’s central park, Villa Borghese, is perfect for a leisurely stroll, picnic, or visit to one of its museums. The gardens offer beautiful landscapes and views over the city.
Campo de’ Fiori: This lively market square transforms from a vibrant market by day to a popular nightlife spot by evening. It’s a great place to experience local life.
The Jewish Ghetto: Explore the historic Jewish Ghetto, one of the oldest Jewish communities in Europe. Wander its narrow streets, see the Great Synagogue, and enjoy its unique charm.
Appian Way (Via Appia Antica): One of the oldest and most important Roman roads, the Appian Way offers a historic walk lined with ancient ruins and catacombs. It’s perfect for a scenic and historical day out.
Trastevere: Explore the charming streets of this historic neighbourhood, known for its vibrant nightlife.

These attractions provide a glimpse into Rome’s rich history and vibrant culture without costing a penny. Enjoy exploring the Eternal City!

Staying Safe

Rome is a relatively safe city, crimes of violence against visitors are rare, but like many major cities petty theft and pickpocketing do occur especially in crowded tourist spots or busy public transport. So keep your valuables safe and out of sight.

If you have an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

Of course, as with any trip, the key thing is to have comprehensive travel insurance coverage to protect against, cancellations, theft, illness etc. For this, we use and recommend using Staysure – specialists in over 50’s travel insurance, as we have always found them fair and easy to deal with.

The post Rome and Bruce Springsteen – Grand European Tour Part 14 appeared first on Destination Someplace.

The Split to Italy Ferry – Grand European Tour Part 13

SSomewhere — Mon, 19 Feb 2024 14:27:54 +0000

We Take to the Waves on the Split to Italy Ferry

This is one of a series of blog posts detailing our 10-county trip around Europe on trains, buses, automobiles and ferries. All the posts highlight what we got up to (hopefully without the dull bits!). Along with some tips and helpful overviews should you wish to visit the destinations. In this episode, we take the Split to Italy ferry. You can see all the posts from this trip here.

On arriving at Split, we made our way to our overnight accommodation, this time in the south end of the town, a little away from the sea and less touristy. It was a bit of a walk, but it always seems further away when you don’t really know where you are heading. I really can’t remember what we did before we had Google Maps. After stocking up on a few essentials and settling into our digs. We headed off to find a restaurant, most of which are inevitably toward the sea. Although we had only previously stayed in Split for a couple of days on this trip, we oddly felt very at home immediately even though it was a completely different part of the town we were exploring.

If You Visit Split, Eat Here!

As luck would have it, and guided by some good reviews on Trip Advisor we found a great restaurant, the Nevera Tavern – great staff, wonderful atmosphere and fantastic food. If you like fish you cannot go wrong here. Our only regret is that we didn’t have the obvious speciality of the house, a mixed fish banquet that arrived in a steaming cauldron and required ‘grown up’ bibs to enjoy in all its glory. We had serious food envy that night, and if we get the chance to return there that’s what we will be ordering.

More Eating!

The following day, we dropped our cases off at a left-luggage depot at the ferry port, to free us for a leisurely day in Split exploring more of the old town and the market, and having a very good lunch at the small and usually busy MakaMaka Accai and Poke Bar (very tasty food at reasonable prices – great if you are into poke bowls).

Heading back down to the port, we had a final coffee in Split, picked up our luggage and headed for the ferry.

All Aboard The Split to Italy Ferry

This was our first time on a trans-Adriatic ferry and we were travelling with SNAV lines on the Moby Zaza. If you read the online reviews for this company’s trans-Adriatic ferries you’d probably believe that you were going to be thrown into some dingy hold, chained to your fellow passengers or encouraged to row across the waves by some whip-cracking barbarian insisting we sing out-of-tune sea shanties all the way – okay, I’m exaggerating. The reviews currently are poor, but this wasn’t our experience – this ferry was like most ferries – a bus of the sea to get you from A to B (or in our case Split to Ancona). The ferry was clean, the staff were all friendly, courteous and competent. Absolutely nothing to complain about. I think maybe some of the negative reviews were comparing this ferry experience with that of a ‘cruise ship’ experience. Ferries are not cruises. Our experience on this ferry was not so different from the ferries that plough across the North Sea or the Channel.

Search Ferries Below

We Land in Italy in The Rain

We disembarked the Spilt to Italy ferry the next morning at Ancona, relatively refreshed (but I think I’m getting too old for bunk beds!), and we were met by cold and insistent rain. We quickly picked up a taxi at the port to take us to the railway station (it was too far to walk, even on a good day and this was not a good day, weather-wise).

It was still early, so we killed a little time with a couple of cappuccinos at a café -bar across from the station until our train was due. Unfortunately, halfway through the frothy bit, I received a text message from Trenitalia (the national Italian train company), that our had been cancelled due to critical weather conditions.

Note: In Italy, especially on the popular or high-speed routes we were required to make seat reservations on specific train journeys – hence the notification. So, finishing our coffee we headed back to the station, to work out our options.

Back On The Tracks

On arriving at the station it was pretty obvious that the adverse and unusual weather was having a knock-on effect for most of the services from the North (we didn’t realise how bad things had been and continued to be until we saw the news a few days later). After a few minutes of intense deliberation (in Yorkshire we usually refer to this as ‘Uming and Arring’), we decided to take the next train heading towards Ascola Picino (which is about halfway to Pescara, where we would need to change trains and Ancona).

This route would at least get us heading south, and as we needed to stay on the coast so decided we could get off at Porto d’Ascoli (on the coast), grab some lunch and then pick up another train, heading south to Pescara. Good plan. So fingers crossed we hopped aboard – the great thing about the interrail pass we had, is that it allows you to be very flexible and change your plans at a moment’s notice – very useful.

An hour and a half later we were in Porto d’Ascoli – it was still pouring down with rain.

We’d planned a quick 2-hour stop at Porto d’Ascoli, and very few things are quite as dreary as an out-of-season coastal town in the rain, and boy, was it raining.

After a quick search for somewhere reasonably close by to get lunch (via a bit of random Googling), we headed off at a quick pace to a bar/restaurant we hoped would be open and serving food.

USEFUL RESOURCES – ITALY

Accommodation: Booking.com

Activities: Get Your Guide

Flights: Skyscanner

Trains: Rail Europe

Bus: FlixBus

Car Hire: AutoEurope

We Find Shelter From The Storm

A few minutes later we arrived at the Savior Faire Di Quinzi, drenched and in need of shelter, food and some warm Italian hospitality – this little bar did not disappoint.

On entering the bar, we garnered a few curious looks from some of the locals, as they probably weren’t used to soaking wet tourists descending on them, at least before the summer season started, but we were soon making friends, especially with the bar owner Giorgio, who went out of his way to make us feel very welcome.

Giorgio soon had us settled in the restaurant area of the bar with coffee, and assured us that we could eat there (a little earlier than normal to ensure we got back to the station on time). Giorgio was the perfect host, very friendly, and we were lucky to bump into him on our first day in Italy.

Lunch was delicious (carbonara for me and ravioli for Mrs A) and arrived on time, so we didn’t need to rush it. Then it was some quick goodbyes, and back off to the railway station. Thankfully, by then, the rain had eased.

We will certainly return to Porto d’Ascoli in the not-too-distant future and will be sure to pop in and see Giorgio at the Savior Faire Di Quinzi.

The rest of the day’s train journey was fairly uneventful (and rather wet) as we headed into the beautiful region of Abruzzo.

Coming up soon… the next instalment of the Grand European Tour.

Or for more tips and insights on Ancona and the Split to Italy ferry please continue reading below…

Getting to Ancona

We arrived at Ancona on this trip by ferry, but Ancona is easily accessible with other transport options and makes a great hub for exploring this side of Italy. Here are the main transport options:

By Air: You can easily get to Ancona Airport from the UK, as well as via international flights across Europe. We would recommend using Skyscanner to find flights into Ancona, and, if you are flexible when you go/return using the ‘search by month’ tool to find the most economical flights.

By Train: Ancona is easily reachable via the comfortable and efficient Italian railway network. Check out trains to Ancona here.

By Bus: Ancona is also easy to reach by bus, we would recommend Flixbus which serves the vast majority of mainland Europe and offers cost-effective options to get to Ancona.

Where to stay in Ancona

If you are planning on staying in Ancona, here are our recommendations.

A couple of hotels worth considering are the SeePort Hotel, with a beautiful sea-front restaurant and only a short 15-minute walk from the railway station. Or located just outside of town the wonderful and incredibly cool Ego Hotel with its own spa!

A centrally located private apartment such as the #casacongiardino is a great option.

Top Tips – Ancona

Use Omio to compare buses versus trains, very useful.

Check our resources page for more budget tips and discounts from our days in transit!

10 Tips for Taking the Split to Italy Ferry

Book in Advance: As with all forms of popular public transport, it is always best to book in advance, the Split to Italy ferry is no exception. In the peak tourist seasons, ferry tickets can sell out quickly. Booking your ticket in advance online or through a travel agency ensures you have a spot reserved.
Check Schedules: Ferry schedules can vary depending on the season (for example many ferries traversing the Adriatic have very limited schedules during the winter) and day of the week. Be sure to check the departure times well in advance and planning accordingly is essential.
Arrive Early: Arriving at the port early gives you time to navigate any potential crowds, complete ticketing procedures, and board your ferry cool and relaxed. Many ferries can be very busy in the peak season.
Verify Your Departure Terminal: Split has multiple ferry terminals, with ferries going over to Italy and many of the Croatian islands so make sure you know which one your ferry departs from. Double-check this information before heading to the port to avoid any confusion and delays.
Pack the Essentials: Since the journey to Ancona takes several hours, it’s essential to pack any necessary items such as snacks, water, entertainment, and medications to keep yourself comfortable during the trip.
Secure Accommodation: If your ferry journey extends into the evening or overnight, consider booking a cabin for added comfort, security and privacy. Some ferries offer various accommodation options, including cabins with beds and shared lounge areas.
Stay Informed: Keep an eye on weather forecasts and any travel advisories that may affect ferry services. Delays or cancellations can occur due to storms and inclement weather, so staying informed allows you to adjust your plans accordingly.
Follow Instructions: Pay attention to announcements and follow crew instructions once onboard the ferry. This ensures the safety and smooth operation of the journey for all passengers.
Enjoy the Views: The ferry journey from Split to Ancona offers beautiful views of the Adriatic Sea and the coastline. So take the opportunity to relax and enjoy the scenery during the voyage.
Plan Onward Transportation in Ancona: Upon arrival in Ancona, have a transportation plan in place to reach your final destination, whether it’s a hotel, airport, onward train or another city. Familiarize yourself with local transportation options such as taxis, buses, or rental cars ahead of time to make your stay in Ancona or onward journey as easy as possible.

Of course, you can adapt the above tips if you are going in the other direction too, and planning to take the ferry from Ancona in Italy to Split in Croatia.

Staying Safe

Taking the Split to Italy ferry is generally safe, but, as always, keep your valuables safe and out of sight.

And if you have an emergency when back on dry land, dial 112 for assistance.

The post The Split to Italy Ferry – Grand European Tour Part 13 appeared first on Destination Someplace.

Dubrovnik Ferry To Korcula Island – Grand European Tour Part 12

SSomewhere — Wed, 24 Jan 2024 11:49:37 +0000

Grand European Tour – Setting Sail For Korcula

This is one in a series of blog posts detailing our 10-county trip around Europe on trains, buses, cars and ferries. All the posts highlight what we got up to (without the boring bits) along with some tips and helpful overviews should you wish to visit the destinations. This post focuses on our trip on the Dubrovnik ferry to Korcula Island. You can see all the posts from this trip here.

With over a thousand islands dotted along the Croatian coast, there was plenty of choice when choosing an island getaway. To be honest, Korcula (Korčula) was a little bit random, but it was approximately halfway between Dubrovnik and Split which fell neatly in with our plans.

The Dubrovnik ferry to Korcula was a catamaran and way more comfortable and roomy than our recent bus journeys, and by this time we were reasonably sure we’d shaken off our Dutch student friends! So onto our first Croatian Island.

Korcula – Small But Perfectly Formed

Korcula (pronounced KOR-chu-la) is a small island, about 29 miles long and about 5 miles across. The main town is Korcula town which is where we stayed. Korcula town is like Dubrovnik in miniature, fortified walls surround the town, and although it is popular with tourists, it was not over full on our visit, unlike Dubrovnik which was very busy.

The main entrance to the medieval old town is over a stepped bridge through the Land Gate, built to honour Leonardo Foscolo, a hero of Dalmatia during the 17th century, and this is how we wound our way to our apartment after being met off the Dubrovnik ferry to Korcula by our accommodation host.

An Evening By The Adriatic Sea

After settling into our new temporary and rather spacious home, we took a walk around the town walls and found a nice little pizza restaurant (Tesoro Pizzaria) with an outside table overlooking the Adriatic and nearby Pelješac peninsula (Croatia). Yes, it was warm enough to sit outside, just.

Korcula is not a big town, so the next morning we spent time exploring the little streets, including the one where Marco Polo, Korcula’s most famous son, was reputedly born. There seemed to be interesting little shops around every corner for souvenirs and jewellery. We then grabbed a couple of sandwiches from a local deli and headed along the coast for about a mile and then up into the hills for a couple of hours’ walk. Korcula Island is known as the green island given that its interior is densely forested, so great for hiking. This time of year we didn’t bump into another soul and were rewarded with stunning views over Korcula and the nearby peninsula.

Back to Sea

The following day we had a little time to kill, so spent the morning relaxing and trying to work out where exactly our next outbound ferry would arrive from the rather vague instructions we received on the booking. Korcula currently has two docks (East and West) where ferries arrive and depart, so if you are catching a ferry from here it is worth checking where you need to be, as it will not necessarily be the same dock you were dropped off at (it wasn’t for us). Again it was a catamaran, this time to take us back to Split for a quick overnight before heading to Italy the next day.

See the next instalment of the Grand European Tour here.

Or for more tips and insights on Korcula please continue reading below…

How to Get to Korcula

By Air: Korcula Island doesn’t have an airport, but the nearest ones are Dubrovnik and Split Airports. From either of these two hubs, you can generally catch a ferry to Korcula – see below for further details. We would recommend using Skyscanner to find flights to Dubrovnik and Split, and, if you are flexible when you go/return using the ‘search by month’ tool to find the most economical flights.

By Ferry: Being an island, the easiest way to access Korcula is by ferry (such as the Dubrovnik Ferry to Korcula we used). There are numerous routes to Korcula, including from Split, Dubrovnik (in Croatia) and Hvar (on Hvar Island). Depending on where you are coming from, ferry crossings can be as little as 30 minutes, and during the peak summer season, there are around 10 sailings to/from Korcula. In the off-season, there will be significantly less. You can check out ferry crossings to Korcula here.

USEFUL RESOURCES – KORCULA

Accommodation: Booking.com

Activities: Get Your Guide

Flights: Skyscanner

Trains: Rail Europe

Bus: FlixBus

Car Hire: AutoEurope

Getting around Korcula Island

There are lots of options for getting around Korcula,

Walk: Korcula town is small, in particular, the old town with its narrow pedestrian streets is perfect for walking. It is also easy to venture further afield on foot as we did into the nearby hills. To make things easier download the AllTrails app.

By bicycle: If you want to venture further afield into the island then hiring a bicycle is also a great option. Bikes can be hired from several places in Korcula town so it is easy to explore the island on two wheels.

By Bus: Local buses are a good and convenient option to get you around to the main towns on the island. See here for further information.

By taxi: Taxis are also available on the island for more comfortable transportation, but note that the island does not yet have Uber.

Hire a car: Of course, for complete freedom when exploring the island hiring a car is a good option, especially if you are planning on a few days here, but remember Korcula old town is walled and pedestrianised so there is no need for a car if you are staying in the town. You will find local car rental companies in Korcula town.

Top Tips – Korcula

Check our resources page for more budget tips and discounts from our days in transit!

Where to stay on Korcula

Here are a few accommodation options for a stay on Korcula

A couple of places worth considering ais the beautiful Villa Soul Sisters if you want to be right near the beach and not too far from Korcula town itself, or Korcula’s oldest hotel, the elegant Aminess Korcula Heritage Hotel.

A private apartment such as the very spacious Apartments Sunny Town where we stayed, could also be a great option.

The Top 10 Things to See and Do on Korcula

Korčula is a beautiful gem of a Croatian island, known for its stunning landscapes, historic sites, and vibrant culture. Here are the top 10 things to see and do on Korčula:

Old Town of Korčula: You can easily explore the charming Old Town, with its with narrow medieval streets and well-preserved architecture. Visit the Cathedral of St. Mark, Marco Polo’s alleged birthplace, and enjoy the chilled atmosphere in the main square.
Marco Polo Museum: Learn about the legendary explorer Marco Polo, who is believed to have been born in Korčula. The museum showcases his life and travels through exhibits, artifacts, and multimedia displays.
St. Mark’s Cathedral: Admire the impressive St. Mark’s Cathedral, a Gothic-Renaissance masterpiece with a beautiful facade and interior. The cathedral is home to notable artworks and sculptures.
Get out into the country on an eBike: The countryside of Korcula offers some great views and chances to explore, but it is an island so there are hills, so why not take an eBike tour to see the island in all its glory with a little less effort.
Korčula’s Beaches: Relax on one of Korčula’s picturesque beaches. Pržina Beach, Lumbarda Beaches, and Vela Pržina are popular choices, offering clear waters and a peaceful atmosphere.
Visit Vis Island: Take a boat trip to Vis Island and its Famous Blue cave only accessible by boat and one of the most enchanting spots in Croatia.
Wine Tasting in Lumbarda: Korčula is renowned for its excellent wines, particularly the white wine made from the local Grk grape. Visit Lumbarda for a wine-tasting experience paired with stunning sea views.
Moreska Sword Dance: If you are in Korčula in the summer, try to catch a performance of the Moreska (usually performed in Korčula town on 29 July -St. Theodore’s Day and Saturdays during the summer tourist season). This is a traditional sword dance that has been part of Korčula’s culture for centuries. The dance tells a story of conflict and resolution and is a unique cultural experience.
Korčula’s Local Cuisine: Sample the delicious local cuisine in Korčula. Especially try the fresh seafood, grilled fish, lamb dishes, and local specialities like pasticada. Many restaurants in the Old Town offer a charming setting for a delightful culinary experience.

Staying Safe

Korcula is known for its friendly locals and laid-back atmosphere, and the crime rate is low.

If you have an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

It is important, as with any trip, to have comprehensive travel insurance coverage to protect against, cancellations, theft, illness etc. For this, we use and recommend using Staysure – specialists in over 50’s travel insurance, as we have always found them fair and easy to deal with.

The post Dubrovnik Ferry To Korcula Island – Grand European Tour Part 12 appeared first on Destination Someplace.

How to Spend 2 days in Dubrovnik – Grand European Tour Part 11

SSomewhere — Wed, 15 Nov 2023 09:36:31 +0000

Grand European Tour – 2 days in Dubrovnik, Or How We Split From Split and Head For Game of Thrones Central

This is another in a series of blog posts detailing our 10-county trip around Europe on trains, buses, cars and ferries. All the posts highlight what we got up to (hopefully without the boring bits) along with some tips and helpful overviews should you wish to visit the destinations. This post focuses on our 2 days in Dubrovnik. You can see all the posts from this trip here.

The following day, we took a final stroll around Split and then along the promenade, cases trundling behind us to find the bus for Dubrovnik, our next stop.

The bus was late by about an hour, and when it did arrive it was rammed with people (including the Dutch students we had met yesterday!) and cases – It took forever to load the cases, and ours got severely dinted in the process – bear this in mind if you are travelling on buses. This, by far, was our most uncomfortable journey. The bus was a ‘double decker’ in the sense that it was on two levels, we choose the bottom level, which in hindsight, was probably a mistake, as it was more cramped with a low ceiling and little leg room (I’m over 6 feet tall). Unfortunately on this journey, the onboard toilet also seems to be having its own issues, given the faces of the people brave enough to use it and the unpleasant odour permeating he bus every time the door opened. Oh, the glamour of intercontinental travel.

RESOURCES – DUBROVNIK

Accommodation: Booking.com

Activities: Get Your Guide

Flights: Skyscanner

Trains: Rail Europe

Bus: FlixBus

Car Hire: AutoEurope

We Arrive in Dubrovnik

After a long and winding bus journey, we finally arrived at Dubrovnik station, and quickly found a taxi to our accommodation, and was greeted by our very friendly host with a very welcome cold beer, after several hours on a warm bus, this was just what we needed.

After stocking up on a few supplies, we headed to a local pizza restaurant, the Vita Bella which was about a kilometre walk from our apartment but not in the tourist area of town. Given the choice, we often try to seek out the restaurants in the less touristy areas of major tourist hotspots, mainly because the food is usually good, you are less likely to get ripped off and we like to integrate (even for a short while with the locals). This proved to be the case with the Vita Bella.

A Busy Day in The Old Town

The next morning we headed into Dubrovnik’s historical centre, about a 20 minute walk from our apartment. Stopping off at Restaurant Sesame for a morning cappuccino.

Our first port of call after this was the Fort Lovrijenac, which is more recently famous as the location of several ‘Game of Thrones’ scenes, but this striking edifice has existed since the 1300s.

After this we crossed through the ancient walls of Dubrovnik into the Old Town itself. The majority of the Old Town is given over to a myriad of shops and an array of restaurants providing many cuisines, Croatian and Italian being the most popular. You can easily pick up souvenirs here (which wasn’t on our tick list for this trip as we simply did not have the room), from icons and paintings to everything ‘Game of Thrones’ (Dubrovnik is where much of the series was filmed). Eventually, wandering through the town you’ll come across the small, but vibrant Gunduliceva Poljana Market where you can stock up on seasonal fruit and vegetables, as well as handmade gifts and souvenirs.

Of course, we also bumped into our Dutch students, yet again! – by this time we were beginning to think we were stalking each other, so said hello and goodbye yet again (for the third time!).

After a light lunch, the day was getting very warm, and the Adriatic waves gently lapping against the old city walls where one of the locals was swimming looked very tempting – we got talking to this aquatic adventurer, a very friendly guy, who said he swims there every day rain or shine – so if you are in Dubrovnik and come across him don’t forget to say hello.

After a full day in Dubrovnik, we walked back to our digs and then found somewhere to eat, again locally, fuelled by a couple of beers in the Roxy Bar (a well-known, local blues and music bar – no, it wasn’t rough and the beer was excellent).

We Catch The Island Ferry

The following day we had a ferry to catch, but not until the afternoon, so headed back to Dubrovnik old town early in the morning. This we found was the best time to visit, before the umbrella waving tour guides descended with their hordes – very quiet – you can almost imagine what it was like a hundred years ago before it morphed into the tourist hotspot it now is.

After grabbing a light lunch and with gelato in hands we headed back to our apartment and then headed for the port with a short taxi ride.

We booked all our ferries via Direct Ferries and this particular one was taking us on a two-and-a-half-hour ride to the island of Korčula…

Go here to read the next instalment of the Grand European Tour.

Or for more tips and insights on Dubrovnik please continue reading below…

Getting to Dubrovnik

By Air: You can get to Dubrovnik Ruđer Bošković Airport easily from the UK, as well as via international flights across Europe. I would recommend using Skyscanner to find flights into Dubrovnik, and, if you are flexible when you go/return using the ‘search by month’ tool to find the most economical flights.

By Train: If you have read our experience of travelling to Croatia, you will know that in our opinion the rail network for accessing the major coastal towns of both Dubrovnik and Split could be better. To get to Dubrovnik by train the easiest current route would probably be from the direction of Sarajevo (but you’d still have to get a bus part of the way), still improvements to the railway infrastructure are probably on the cards, so I expect we’ll see positive changes in the future. In the meantime, you can check out the train options here.

By Bus: Dubrovnik is easy to reach by bus, I would recommend Flixbus, which is a company based in Germany, but serves the vast majority of mainland Europe and offers cost-effective options to get to Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik: Getting to and From the Airport

If you decide to fly to Dubrovnik Ruđer Bošković Airport (also referred to as Čilipi Airport), here are a few simple options for getting into the city depending on your budget. They are:

Book an airport-to-city shuttle: There is a shuttle bus service that connects the airport to Dubrovnik city centre. Bus schedules are typically coordinated with flight arrivals and departures. You’ll find timetables and prices here.

Local Bus: If you are not in a hurry, and don’t mind stopping several times along the way into town, you could opt to take a local bus, but note this service doesn’t run as frequently as the shuttle bus. See here are further details.

Take a taxi: Taxis are widely available at the airport, and as usual you will find them outside the arrivals terminal, where you’ll probably will find yourself greeted by a guy who seems to organise the taxis lined up at the rank. Make sure to use official taxi services and it is wise to confirm the fare in advance with the driver.

Book a private or shared transfer into town: Another option is to book a private transfer or shared transfer before you arrive, for a swift exit into Dubrovnik.

Hire a car: Of course, if you want the flexibility of your own transport and are planning to go further afield than Dubrovnik (remember you can’t take a car into the Old Town), then you will find a raft of car rental counters in the arrivals hall, or you can book in advance online.

Getting around Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is a beautiful city with a very well preserved historic centre and getting around his relatively easy. Probably the best way to get around, given that the Old Town is pedestrianised, is on foot. Remember vehicles are not allowed inside the Old Town, so you need to pick up/drop off any public transport (buses, taxis etc.) outside the city walls.

Walk: The Old Town is relatively compact with many of the main tourist attractions within walking distance of each other within the old city walls. Losing yourself in the narrow streets is a great way to explore the town.

By Bus: The public bus system in Dubrovnik is operated by the company, Libertas and connects with the city centre with various neighbourhoods and suburbs of Dubrovnik. You can purchase bus tickets at kiosks or inside the buses themselves.

By taxi: Taxis are also widely available and you can find taxi stands in popular areas of the town. Uber is also widely available outside the city walls.

Cable car: the Dubrovnik cable car provides an option to enjoy some excellent views of the city and the Adriatic. It connects the Old Town with Mount Srđ and once at the top, you could also visit the old Imperial Fort.

Boats and ferries: If you want to explore the nearby islands then there are many boat and ferry services available from Dubrovnik. These can take you to places such as Lokrum Island or nearby beaches which may not be quite so accessible by road.

Top Tips – Dubrovnik

Use Omio to compare buses versus trains, very useful.

Check our resources page for more budget tips and discounts from our days in transit!

Where to stay in Dubrovnik

Here are a few accommodation options for a stay in Dubrovnik.

A private apartment such as Apartments Nina@Anita where we stayed, with super-friendly hosts Nina and Anita is perfect if you don’t mind walking (about a mile) or catching the bus to the Old Town.

A couple of options closer to the action are the excellent Scalini Palace which is centrally located in the Old Town without the usual expensive price tag, or the wonderful Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik for some old world charm just a short walk from the Old City Walls.

Remember the Old Town is pedestrianised, so bare this in mind when booking accommodation, as your transport would have to leave you outside the city walls and you would have to make your way to your accommodation on foot if you book in the Old Town.

2 Days in Dubrovnik – Suggested Itinerary

If, like us, you get a chance to spend 2 days in Dubrovnik, here’s a suggested itinerary for a little inspiration. As always, check the opening times of any attractions before your visit.

Top Tip: If you are planning on visiting the historical sites in Dubrovnik, then purchasing a Dubrovnik Card is a good idea. The card gives you entry into many of the city’s museums as well as access to the Old Town walls, and as a bonus enables you to use the city’s public bus system for free – it’s an great option if you want to make the most of time in Dubrovnik. You’ll find more details on the Dubrovnik card here.

Day 1

Walk the city walls: Why not start your day early with an excellent walk around the Old Town walls in the morning. Take in the fantastic views of the Old Town and the sparkling Adriatic Sea. Morning is best for this, before the heat of the day kicks in (and it is less crowded). Set aside an hour or two for this.
Visit the Rector’s Palace: A Dubrovnik must-see is the 15th-century Retcor’s Palace (Knežev dvor), an imposing Gothic -Renaissance edifice that now serves as a museum, and was a filming location for some Game of Thrones scenes.
Explore the Old Town: Take some time, to explore the labyrinthine streets and alleys of the Old Town, where you’ll find plenty of souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes nested side by side with historical sites such as the Baroque Church of St Blaise (Crkva svetog Vlaha) or the ever-popular Gundulićeva Poljana Market, an open-air market found in Gundulić square.
The Sponza Palace: Home to the State Archives this elegant Renaissance 16th-century palace offers a fascinating glimpse into Dubrovnik’s turbulent recent history.
Onofrio’s Fountain: Time to take a break and maybe grab an ice cream near the imposing Onofrio’s Fountain, a popular meeting point for locals and visitors alike.
The Franciscan Monastery and Pharmacy: As evening descends, why not visit one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe, before dinner in one of the many restaurants in the Old Town?

Day 2

Lokrum Island: This morning why not take a ferry to nearby Lokrum Island, and explore its botanical gardens. If the weather is good, there are many swimming spots on this tranquil island, and ideal should you want to take your own picnic. The peace is only occasionally disturbed by the occasional squawking of the resident peacocks.
Visit Mount Srđ: After lunch on Lokrum Island or back in Dubrovnik Old Town, why not take the cable car up to the top of Mount Srđ for some truly stunning views of Dubrovnik and the nearby islands.
War Photo Limited: On returning back to Dubrovnik Old Town, you may want to visit War Photo Limited. It is fitting that a country that has experienced so much conflict throughout its history should host this permanent museum of photography exhibits illustrating the stark reality of war and conflicts around the world.
Enjoy a Dubrovnik sunset: As the sun starts its evening descent why not spend that time at the city walls or maybe grab a cocktail at the beautiful, cliffside Buza Bar, with its spectacular views.
A view to dine for: You’ll never get bored of the views around Dubrovnik, so why not take one last chance to press them into your memories by having a final evening meal at one of the many restaurants (such as the Gradska Kavana Arsenal) with a great view for your final evening.

Staying Safe

Dubrovnik is a generally safe city. Crimes of violence against visitors are very rare.

If you have an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

The post How to Spend 2 days in Dubrovnik – Grand European Tour Part 11 appeared first on Destination Someplace.

Croatia and Dalmatian Coast: Biograd na Moru To Split – Grand European Tour Part 10

SSomewhere — Fri, 03 Nov 2023 15:30:27 +0000

Taking the Bus Through Croatia and Dalmatian Coast to Split

You can see all the posts from this trip here.

As mentioned in the last post, Zagreb, unfortunately, was simply a hub to get to our next destination, so after resting up for the evening we headed down to the Zagreb’s bus station the following morning. Why were we catching a bus and not a train? Well we had decided during the planning of this trip that we really wanted to see Croatia (not just a couple of quick overnights in Zagreb), particularly the Dalmatian coast, and maybe hop onto an island or two – the problem is that, at present, Croatia’s rail network is quite sparse and mainly serves the key towns. It does not , however, run along the coastal towns which means navigating our way down the coast by train, whilst not impossible, would be pretty tricky and time consuming. So we made the decision to use buses (and ferries) for this part of the journey.

OTHER USEFUL RESOURCES – CROATIA

Accommodation: Booking.com

Activities: Get Your Guide

Flights: Skyscanner

Trains: Rail Europe

Bus: FlixBus

Car Hire: AutoEurope

From Zagreb to The Coast

Zagreb train station is big but well laid out and we had little difficulty finding our bus. Cue four and half hours on a bus (which was booked with Flixbus, but contracted out to a local company). Our next destination was the Crvena Luka Hotel and Resort, close to the harbour town of Beograd na Moru – after four and half of travelling and the last few nights mostly being one-night stands we were getting pretty fazed. It was time for some rest and relaxation.

Bus travel is not for everyone and over four hours on the bus was enough for us. On arriving at Beograd na Moru it was just a short taxi ride to the resort of Crvena Luka. On route there, the taxi driver asked us if we were there to rest or ‘party’, as apparently there was a DJ festival taking place at the resort at exactly the same time we were staying there.

On checking in, and forgoing the opportunity to join the festival, we headed for our room.

A Laid-back Break

The Crvena Luka Resort is well laid out, but at this time of year (start of the season) was very quiet, even with the DJ festival happening, we more or less had the place to ourselves most of the time – a little too much to ourselves probably – but we were pretty exhausted by this time, so it was great to have nothing to do for a while. We stayed on a half board basis and the buffet breakfast and dinners in the restaurant were great, our only niggle is that you couldn’t get water with your dinner without paying through the nose for a bottle of water (they did have an offer on the wine though, so we drank that instead!) – aside from that all good.

We stayed here 3 nights at the resort and hired bicycles one day to cycle into Beograd na Moru itself, which was very quiet, but it was a Sunday, it was early in the season and it was also St George’s day (widely celebrated in Croatia). We also took advantage of the resorts spa treatments (opting for saunas and massages) as the weather took a turn for the worst on the Monday.

Onto Split and Into the Hills

On leaving Beograd na Moru, we caught another bus (another 3 and a bit hours), this time to the beautiful coastal town of Split.

Split bus station is located right next to the ferry terminals, so after a 15 minute walk along the promenade (the waterfront at Split is really quite beautiful) we were at our accommodation for the next couple of nights. Central Split is easy to walk around, but be prepared to get lost in the twisty little cobbled-stoned streets, only to find yourself back where you started (we did this several times). It’s touristy, but not as touristy or as expensive as Dubrovnik in our opinion. Needless to say we spent the entire day exploring the town, in particular the Diocletian’s Palace, and hiking up to Marjan Hill and the surrounding trails for panoramic views of the city. On the hill, we met a group of Dutch students who were working their way across Europe to Monte Negro as part of their degree work, so we had a chat and took turns at taking photographs of each other, whilst lightly taking the micky (apparently I look nothing like Tom Cruise!).

In the evening we had a couple of beers and grabbed a light dinner, before falling (exhausted) into bed.

You’ll find the next instalment of the Grand European Tour here.

Or for more tips and insights on Split please continue reading below…

Getting to Split

By Air: You can get to Split Airport easily from the UK (some direct and some indirect flights depending on the departure airport), as well as via international flights across Europe. We would recommend using Skyscanner to find flights into Split, and, if you are flexible when you go/return using the ‘search by month’ tool to find the most economical flights.

By Train: In our experience, the Croatian coastline is not particularly well-served when it comes to trains. Trains from anywhere in Europe tend to come via the hub of Zagreb (about 6 and half hours away by rail) and as of writing do not run very often. Obviously, this leaves room for improvement, but a good option might be to take one of the night trains (depending on your starting point) that are currently coming online – check here for details of trains to Split.

By Bus: Split can also be reached by bus, we would recommend Flixbus, which t serves the vast majority of mainland Europe and offers cost-effective options to get to Split.

By Ferry: If you are visiting Croatia from Italy, then a ferry crossing may be an option, you check the ferry schedules here.

Split: Getting to and From the Airport

If you decide to fly to Split, here are a few simple options for getting into Split from the airport depending on your budget. They are:

Take the shuttle bus: You will find the shuttle bus parked in front of Arrivals as you exit the airport building. Look out for a blue bus, the name of the bus company is Pleso Prevoz. This will take you to Split town centre in about 30 minutes and you can buy a ticket with the driver or online at the bus company’s website.

Get the local bus: There is also a local bus (number 37) service that takes you from Split Airport to Split, but note you have to pick it up on the road outside of the airport terminal (Cesta Dr Franje Tuđmana Road), and it takes a minimum of 50 minutes to get into town, as it stops along the way – it will also deliver you to the Sukoisan bus station in Split, rather than the main bus station, which might not be so convenient and you may have to get another bus or taxi to your final destination within Split. You can buy a ticket on the bus. You can find more information regarding this local bus service here.

Take a taxi: The taxi ranks are located just outside the arrivals terminal, close to the main exit. The journey time to the centre of Split is usually 30 minutes depending on traffic. Always use official taxis and it is wise to confirm the fare in advance with the driver. Uber also operates in Split.

Hire a car: Of course, if you want the flexibility of your own transport and are looking to explore the towns along the coast or inland, you will find car hire company counters at the airport or you can book in advance online.

Getting around Split

There are many options for getting around Split, depending, of course, on your fitness level and budget. The public transport systems are safe and efficient.

Walk: The waterfront promenade, Splitska Riva, as well as the city centre around the Diocletian Palace are pedestrianised, so this makes Split ideal for walking around. Many of the main tourist attractions are also within walking distance of each other.

By bicycle: An alternative to walking is exploring the town by bicycle. You can rent bicycles from many of the travel agents in the town or use the publically available bikes and eBikes that are scattered around the town and in the pedestrian zones – for more info check out the app here. Perfect for going a little further afield.

By Bus: Split has an extensive bus network for reaching the far-flung areas of the city, which you can’t get to by walking. The local bus services are run by the company Promet, and their website shows the latest service information and timetables. You can also download the app to your Android phone here.

By taxi: You can hail taxis or find them at one of the city’s designated taxi stands. Uber is also available in Split, which you can book as normal through the app.

Top Tips – Split

Use Omio to compare buses versus trains, very useful.

Check our resources page for more budget tips and discounts from our days in transit!

Where to stay in Split

Here are some accommodation options for a stay in Split.

A couple of accommodation options worth considering are the clean and welcoming Rooms & Apartments Peruzovic which is where we stayed on this visit and is conveniently located.

A centrally located hotel such as the Hotel Agava Split might also be a good option.

Unusual Things to Do in Split

Split is a great town to spend a few days if you are exploring the Croatian coast, here are our recommendations for some more unusual things to do whilst there.

Explore the hidden beaches: For peace and tranquillity, why take a bus from Split’s Old Town to picturesque Kasjuni Beach on the Marjan Peninsula or even spend an afternoon relaxing on popular Bacvice Beach, just a short walk from the Old Town.
Take a stroll through Marjan Forest Park: This vast area of 138 hectares is perfect when you want to get some fresh air, with its serene walking trails and stunning viewpoints. Look out for the hidden old medieval church or the old Jewish cemetery. Here are some of the great trails you can explore here.
Visit Diocletian’s Palace at night: Why not visit the Diocletian’s Palace in the evening for a completely different ambience once the crowds of the day have thinned out. The palace was built for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the end of the third century AD and encompasses about half of the old town where you can explore narrow streets and follow up with some traditional Dalmatian cuisine in one of the nearby restaurants.
Discover hidden art galleries and street art: There are many lesser-known galleries showcasing local artists’ work in Split, you’ll find them tucked away on the streets of the Old Town and in the charming neighbourhood of Veli Varoš on the southern slope of Marjan Hill – you never know what you might discover.
Explore Klis Fortress: From its imposing hilltop, this medieval fortress offers spectacular views of Split and was used as a location for the fictional city of ‘Meereen’ in Game of Thrones. Find details of excursions to Klis Fortress here.
Visit the nearby town of Salona: The ancient nearby town of Salona (Solin), the ancient Roman capital of Dalmatia with its long history and well-preserved ruins, is a great destination for history buffs. We recommend visiting in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the crowds.
Experience Traditional Dalmatian Cuisine at Local Konobas: Get your teeth into some traditional Dalmatian cuisine at a local Konobos (traditional Croatian taverns), we recommend local favourite DeListeš or the truly authentic Fetivi, and maybe try one of these local delicacies – goat’s meat with peas, squid with fava beans or cuttlefish stew.
Hop into the Froggieland Museum: For a rainy day in Split, and if you really want to see something quite eccentric and more than a little weird then why not visit the visit Froggieland Museum with its displays feature over five hundred preserved frogs posed in human-like and strangely familiar scenarios. We’re not kidding!

Staying Safe

Split is a generally safe city with low crime rates. Like many popular towns petty theft and pickpocketing can occur especially in crowded tourist spots or busy public transport. So keep your valuables safe and out of sight.

If you have an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

The post Croatia and Dalmatian Coast: Biograd na Moru To Split – Grand European Tour Part 10 appeared first on Destination Someplace.

Is Ljubljana Worth Visiting? We Travel to Slovenia by Train – Grand European Tour Part 9

SSomewhere — Mon, 02 Oct 2023 09:03:37 +0000

Is Ljubljana Worth Visiting?

This is the one in a series of blog posts detailing our 10-county trip around Europe on trains, buses, cars and ferries. All the posts highlight what we got up to (hopefully without the boring bits) along with some tips and helpful overviews should you wish to visit the destinations. Today we ask the question: is Ljubljana worth visiting? Read on to find out the answer. You can see all the posts from this trip here.

On reaching Ljubljana railway station we waved goodbye to Patrick (our temporary travelling companion), who was in transit to Italy, and set off to find our accommodation for the next two nights.

Ljubljana is a small capital city, and easily walkable. On finding our, rather disappointing accommodation (Mrs A has very high standards, sadly not reached on this occasion), located very close to the town centre we were conveniently placed to explore this great town.

Ljubljana town centre is clustered around the Ljubljanica River and from which spills many bars, cafes and shops. Maybe it was the time of year (April), but it didn’t seem chock-o-block with tourists which was great for us. As I, particularly am not a big fan of crowds.

Ljubljana is a university town, so has a young/relaxed vibe, and a ‘student area’ comprising of bars and many takeaways/restaurants providing a wide selection of international cuisine at economical prices. The nearer the ‘centre’ of the town you go, as with most tourist towns, the prices go up somewhat, but we still found the city relatively cheap in comparison to many other European capitals.

OTHER USEFUL RESOURCES – LJUBLJANA

Accommodation: Booking.com

Activities: Get Your Guide

Flights: Skyscanner

Trains: Rail Europe

Bus: FlixBus

Car Hire: AutoEurope

Tivoli Park – Greeness On The Edge Of Town

The following day, newly rested, we set off to explore the town, but since the best of the weather was forecast for the morning we decided to head up into Tivoli Park, which is easily accessible from the centre of the town on foot, and spent the morning the forested hills there. Once at the park, we followed the Jesenkova pot trail around a portion of the park following easy trail makers through the forested hills – a beautiful place, and again not too busy at this time of year, we only saw the odd dog walker and runner. Ljubljana is one of the greenest capitals in Europe and we were in need of some country air and some fine views of the city from above, and Tivoli Park certainly provided.

Pausing for coffee at the Caffe Bienale in the park, we then headed back into town to explore some more and grab some lunch.

Ljubljana – Small, But Perfectly Formed

Ljubljana is an easily walkable town, so exploring the shops and monuments including Prešeren Square (Prešernov trg), which unlike most city squares is adorned with a statue of a poet (France Prešeren (1800–1849)) rather than some politician or general, which made a change, and kind of sums up the vibe of this bohemian city. The square is a busy pedestrianised area, however, cycles are allowed and the number of bicycles crossing the square was initially a little intimidating – in the end, we found it was much safer to ignore and trust the cyclists’ sense of direction rather than trying to dodge them! From the square, the famous Dragon Bridge and most of the main sites of Ljubljana are within easy walking distance.

There are plenty of places to eat including local fare (obviously), so no shortage of choice when it comes to food. That evening, though, we found many of the restaurants were busy, and so located a small Italian restaurant, which was okay, but we thought a little pricey. Before heading back to our accommodation, we had a couple of beers in a friendly little local’s bar close by, making a few new friends along the way, which is easy to do in Ljubljana as we found the residents of the city invariably helpful, curious and friendly.

So back to that question: is Ljubljana worth visiting? The answer is – absolutely! It is definitely one of our favourite cities in Europe.

Ljubljana Castle

The next day, we had a late afternoon train to catch back to, so we used this time to visit the famous Ljubljana Castle. The castle is easily accessible via a funicular which runs up to the castle and gives you various options on the tickets depending on which parts of the castle you are interested in. It’s quite a steep ride, but for us infinitely better than slogging our way up on the footpath. The views from the top are magnificent.

The castle itself is renovated, so in parts looks quite modern – don’t forget to check out the rather eerie puppet museum there. In the central courtyard, there is a bar and restaurant, and again it wasn’t too crowded on the day we visited. Although there are lifts to some of the different levels of the castle there are some areas which appeared to be inaccessible by foot (such as the Outlook Tower), the top of which is accessed by a one-way spiral staircase – but again well worth the effort for the views of Ljubljana and the Kamnik-Savinja Alps.

Lunch in The Market And Back To Zagreb

On descending back down to the town we grabbed some lunch at one of the many food market stalls and retired with it to a nearby bar (who were happy to let you eat it there, as long as you ordered a drink – even though they also sold food – obviously this wouldn’t happen in the UK – so was a pleasant surprise).

After exploring the market, interspersed with a little wine and coffee, we headed off to the train station to catch our (inevitably) delayed ride back to Zagreb.

See the next instalment of the Grand European Tour here!

Or for more tips and insights on Ljubljana please continue reading below…

Getting to Ljubljana

By Air: You can get to Ljubljana Airport (Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport), easily from the UK with direct flights from the London airports, as well as via international flights across Europe. We would recommend using Skyscanner to find flights into Ljubljana, and, if you are flexible when you go/return using the ‘search by month’ tool to find the most economical flights.

By Train: Ljubljana is conveniently located at the intersection of major European transportation routes, midway between Vienna and Venice, so it is easily accessible by train. Check out trains to Ljubljana here.

By Bus: Ljubljana is also easy to reach by bus, we would recommend Flixbus, which is a company based in Germany, but serves the vast majority of mainland Europe and offers cost-effective options to get to Ljubljana.

Ljubljana: Getting to and From the Airport

If you decide to fly to Ljubljana, here are a few simple options for getting into city from the airport depending on your budget. They are:

Take the public bus: You’ll find the bus station located near Passenger Terminal A. Take the Alpetour bus No. 28, which takes about 45 minutes to get into town and tickets can be purchased from the driver or at a kiosk in the airport. Obviously, bus numbers/routes sometimes change, so check at the information desk at the airport.

Book an airport-to-city shuttle: This is a cost-effective option for getting into the city. There are a few shuttle services that operate out of the airport and all their inquiry desks are located in the Arrivals Terminal.

Take a taxi: Taxis will be found at the stands outside the terminal building and the ride to the centre of town is usually 20 to 30 minutes depending on traffic.

Hire a car: Of course, if you want the flexibility of your own transport you can book in advance online and pick it up on arrival.

Getting Around Ljubljana

Here are the main options for getting around the capital of Slovenia, depending on your fitness level and budget. The public transport systems are safe and efficient.

Walk: Ljubljana is pedestrian-friendly city with many of the main tourist attractions within easy walking distance of each other, so making walking around the town one of the best ways to see the main attractions.

By Bicycle: Ljubljana is also very bike-friendly, so you could also hire a bike to explore the city? You can rent bicycles from many bike-sharing services. The town has a good network of dedicated cycle paths making it easy to explore the city on two wheels.

Public Transport: Ljubljana has an efficient and well-connected public transportation system, which includes buses. The Ljubljana City Card offers unlimited travel on buses and also includes entry to several attractions. Buses are obviously a good option for reaching destinations outside the city centre.

Top Tips – Ljubljana

Use Omio to compare buses versus trains, very useful.

Check our resources page for more budget tips and discounts from our days in transit!

Where to stay in Ljubljana

Here are a couple of accommodation options for a stay in Ljubljana.

A couple of hotels worth considering are Grand Hotel Union Eurostars, this Art Nouveau accomodation would certainly add a bit of old world luxury to your visit, or the City Hotel Ljubljana with a summer terrace/cafe bar providing stunning views of Ljubljana Castle.

You can find more great accommodation options for Ljubljana here.

The Top 10 Things to See and Do in Ljubljana

Ljubljana Castle: Perched on a hill overlooking the city, Ljubljana Castle offers stunning views of the city and surrounding landscape. You can take the funicular (as we did) or if feeling more energetic, take a hike to reach the castle and explore its history. If you are short on time why not combine your castle visit with a guided city tour.
Triple Bridge: Designed by the renowned architect Jože Plečnik, the Triple Bridge is a unique architectural feature in the heart of the city. It connects the old town to the modern part of Ljubljana and is a popular gathering spot for tourists and locals alike.
Preseren Square: Located next to the Triple Bridge (Note: Ljubljana is so compact, nearly all the main tourist spots are near to each other!) this central square is dedicated to Slovenia’s greatest poet, France Prešeren. It’s surrounded by historic buildings, cafes, and is home to the iconic Prešeren Monument.
Ljubljanica River: A stroll along the banks of the charming Ljubljanica River, which runs through the city is a great way to explore. You could also take a boat tour along the river to admire the city’s architecture from a completely different perspective.
Tivoli Park: Ljubljana’s largest park, Tivoli Park, is a wonderful place for a leisurely walk, jog, or picnic. We certainly enjoyed exploring it. The park also houses the Tivoli Mansion and the International Centre of Graphic Arts.
Central Market: Located just below the castle, why not explore the vibrant Central Market, where you can find fresh produce, local products, and unique souvenirs of your trip to the city. It’s a great place to immerse yourself in the local culture, and sample some delicious street food (which we can vouch for!).
Dragon Bridge: Another of Jože Plečnik’s creations, the Dragon Bridge is adorned with (you guessed it) dragon statues, which are symbols of Ljubljana. It’s a popular spot for photo opportunities and an iconic architectural sight.
House of Illusions: This interactive museum offers mind-bending optical illusions, puzzles, and exhibits that challenge your perception and entertain visitors of all ages.
Lake Bled: A visit to this Slovenian must-see is a great place to get some fresh air and soak up the dreamy atmosphere. Easily reachable from Ljubljana, Lake Bled and the town that gives it its name are straight out of a fairy tale. An excursion from Ljubljana to Lake Bled makes for a great day trip.
Eat like a local: It goes without saying that there is plenty of gastronomic delights to sample while in Ljublana.
Don’t miss out on trying some traditional Slovenian cuisine at local restaurants. Dishes like potica (nut roll), kranjska klobasa (Carniolan sausage), and struklji (dumplings) are culinary must-tries.

Staying Safe

According to all current sources, Ljubljana is very safe. The crime rate in the city is very low, especially when it comes to serious crimes, which are a rare occurrence.

If you have an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

The post Is Ljubljana Worth Visiting? We Travel to Slovenia by Train – Grand European Tour Part 9 appeared first on Destination Someplace.

Zagreb to Slovenia – Overnight in the Croatian Capital – Grand European Tour Part 8

SSomewhere — Tue, 22 Aug 2023 10:38:21 +0000

Grand European Tour – Sittin’ in the Railway Station…
Got a Ticket to My Destination…Mmm

This is one of a series of blog posts detailing our 10-county trip around Europe on trains, buses, cars and ferries. This one focuses on Zagreb to Slovenia. All the posts highlight what we got up to (hopefully, without the boring bits) along with some tips and helpful overviews should you wish to visit the destinations. You can see all the posts from this trip here.

Our next stop was Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. This was only ever intended to be a quick stopover on the way to Ljubljana (but we did manage to get a great apartment for the night!) as we planned to return here for another overnight on the way down to the Croatian coast, so, to be honest, we didn’t really see as much of the city as we wished.

Our impressions of the city? It’s big and spread out, as borne out by the several inner city railway stations we stopped at before reaching our final destination of the central station of Zagreb (Zagreb Glavni Kolodvor). The area near the railway station has a faded old-world grandeur, unlike some city railway stations in Europe which are often in the midst of less salubrious districts. On exiting Zagreb railway station you are greeted with a wide-open vista with well-kept gardens fronted by a statue of King Tomislav, the first king of Croatia. The station building itself also has a very grand façade, a throwback to the days when Zagreb was a stop on the Orient Express.

OTHER USEFUL RESOURCES – ZAGREB

Accommodation: Booking.com

Activities: Get Your Guide

Flights: Skyscanner

Trains: Rail Europe

Bus: FlixBus

Car Hire: AutoEurope

Zagreb! – Great For Tobacco Lovers

Just a note for non-smokers (like us). Smoking is still very popular in Croatia, having one of the highest percentage of smokers per population in Europe (particularly amongst men), and smoking inside bars still seems to be the done thing (even though, according to Wikipedia ‘Smoking is banned in all enclosed public spaces, with the exception of psychiatric wards and designated smoking rooms’) – in our limited experience, the bars we visited for coffee all had smoking indoors (and out) – which came as a surprise to us since it is banned in many parts of Europe now.

Zagreb to Slovenia

Zagreb, as mentioned was just a one-night stand for us, so the next morning we hit the train station again, to catch our ride to Ljubljana – the train was late by about an hour, this happens all the time, apparently (we gleaned from local knowledge). Once on the train, we got comfortable in one of the six seat compartments, which typically filled the carriages in this part of the world, and was joined by Patrick (a fellow, first time interrailer – Hi Patrick, if you are reading this!) and spent the bulk of the journey sharing our experiences so far.

To read the next instalment of the Grand European Tour go here.

Or for more tips and insights on Zagreb please continue reading below…

Getting to Zagreb

By Air: You can get to Zagreb Airport (Franjo Tuđman Airport) easily from London and Manchester UK airports, as well as via international flights across Europe. I would recommend using Skyscanner to find flights into Zagreb, and, if you are flexible when you go/return using the ‘search by month’ tool to find the most economical flights.

By Train: Although the train network can be limited and occasionally slow in parts of Croatia, getting to the capital, Zagreb, should pose no problems. Zagreb is accessible from the major towns of Croatia, as well as the rest of Europe. Check out trains to Zagreb here.

By Bus: Zagreb is also accessible by bus, and for this I would recommend Flixbus, which is a company based in Germany, but serves the vast majority of mainland Europe and offers cost-effective options to get to Zagreb.

Zagreb: Getting to and From the Airport

If you decide to fly to Zagreb, here are a few simple options for getting into the city from the airport depending on your budget. They are:

Airport Shuttle: Operated by the Pleso Prijevoz company, this is a cost-effective option and will get you to the main bus station in Zagreb in about 30 to 40 minutes.

Public Bus: Bus line number 290 runs between the airport and Zagreb central bus station. Here’s the timetable, but these things change so it’s worth checking locally nearer the time.

Take a taxi: Taxis are found near the ground floor, arrivals area. All taxis, of course, take cash, it is wise to check if they take your card if paying with a credit card and to confirm the fare in advance with the driver.

Hire a car: Of course, if you want the flexibility of your own transport, then you will find a raft of car rental counters at the airport, or you can book in advance online.

Getting Around Zagreb

There are some interesting options for getting around the capital of Croatia (including a funicular!), depending on your fitness level and budget. Here are the main ones:

Walk: Although Zagreb is a large city, the city centre is quite compact so making it perfect for getting around on foot.

By bicycle: Zagreb is mainly flat and with more than 300 km (186 mi) of bike lanes, making it ideal for cycling.

Zagreb Cable Car: Yes, Zagreb has a cable car (žičara), which opened in 2022, and transports passengers on a 5km route from Gracansko dolje in the north of the city to Sljeme (1,030m above sea level) at the top of Medvednica mountain, via the intermediate station of Brestovac. The total ride from the base station to the top takes around 22 minutes.

By Bus: The extensive bus network complements the tram system and you’ll find more information regarding it here.

By taxi/Uber: If you are feeling flush, then getting about by taxi offers an alternative to other forms of public transport. You can hail or find them at one of the city’s designated taxi stands. Uber is now also available in Zagreb which you can book as normal through the app.

By Tram: Using the tram system in Zagreb is probably the easiest way to get around town as they cover a wide swathe of the city and serve most of the cultural hotspots. You can buy tram tickets at newspaper kiosks (also from the drivers in most cases), and remember to validate them on the machines inside the tram (near the doors) immediately upon boarding. More info here.

Top Tips – Zagreb

Use Omio to compare buses versus trains, very useful.

For Hotels including self-catering apartments we use Booking.com, where you can filter by review score and many properties have a pay later/late cancellation policy should your plans suddenly change.

Check our resources page for more budget tips and discounts from our days in transit!

Hotels in Zagreb

Here are a few accommodation options for a stay in Zagreb

A couple of hotels in Zagreb worth considering are Hotel Dubrovnik which is centrally located and close to the main tourist sites, or a bit further afield, located in the historic old town, the superb Hotel Park 45.

If a private apartment is more your thing, then the clean and spacious Logo Apartments where we stayed on this visit could also be a good option.

Zagreb -Things To Do

Explore Ban Jelačić Square: This central square is a great starting point for exploring the city, surrounded by shops, cafes, and historic buildings.
Upper Town (Gornji Grad): This is the historic heart of the city, and features St. Mark’s Church with its colourful tiled roof, the Lotrščak Tower, and narrow medieval streets.
Zagreb Cathedral: The tallest building in Croatia, this beautiful cathedral is an iconic and treasured landmark in the city.
Museum of Broken Relationships: Yes, it is really called that. This unique museum showcases personal stories and objects from (you’ve guessed it) failed relationships, offering an emotional and thought-provoking experience.
Dolac Market: Thisis the place to pick up some local delicacies. Dolac is a bustling open-air market where you can find fresh produce, local foods, and Croatian traditional crafts.
Tkalciceva Street: This famous pedestrian street is lined with cool cafes, restaurants, and shops, making it a perfect spot for a leisurely stroll, but not so easy to pronounce.
Go Green in Zrinjevac Park: This picturesque park is the perfect place to get away from it all, or even have a picnic. There are many other green spaces to visit in Zagreb including Maksimir Park (with a zoo) and Jarun Lake for lakeside activities.
Medvednica Mountain (Sljeme): If you fancy a short hike or a cable car ride, you can enjoy panoramic views of the city from this mountain. See transport options elsewhere in this article.
Eat and drink like a local: Don’t miss the chance to sample traditional Croatian cuisine, including dishes like čevapi (grilled minced meat), sarma (cabbage rolls), and various seafood specialities. Pair your meals with local wines and rakija (fruit brandy).
Croatian National Theatre: Why not attend a performance at this grand historic theatre, showcasing the best of opera, ballet, and drama productions?

Where to eat

For traditional Croatian fare, you could try Stari Fijake, traditional cuisine in a rustic setting. Or take it up a notch and visit Dubravkin Put, this upscale restaurant features modern interpretations of traditional Croatian dishes using locally sourced ingredients in an elegant and refined atmosphere.

There are also many vegetarian-friendly restaurants in Zagreb such as Tač, a trendy place that focuses on vegetarian and vegan cuisine, offering a variety of creative and flavoursome dishes.

Staying Safe

Zagreb is a generally safe city with low crime rates. Crimes of violence against visitors are rare, but like many major cities petty theft and pickpocketing do occur especially in crowded tourist spots or busy public transport. So keep your valuables safe and out of sight.

If you have an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

Of course, the key thing is to have comprehensive travel insurance coverage to protect against, cancellations, theft, illness etc. For this, we use and recommend using Staysure – specialists in over 50’s travel insurance, as we have always found them fair and easy to deal with.

The post Zagreb to Slovenia – Overnight in the Croatian Capital – Grand European Tour Part 8 appeared first on Destination Someplace.

Siofok: A Resort Town on Lake Balaton in Hungary – Grand European Tour Part 7

SSomewhere — Thu, 10 Aug 2023 12:39:22 +0000

How We Ended Up In An Out-Of-Season Hungarian Party Town

This is the one in a series of blog posts detailing our 10-county trip around Europe on trains, buses, cars and ferries. All the posts highlight what we got up to (without the boring bits) along with some tips and helpful overviews should you wish to visit the destinations. This post focuses on the pretty resort town of Siofok in Hungary. You can see all the posts from this trip here.

Siofok (Siófok) is a small town on the shores of Lake Balaton in Hungary, which is one of Europe’s biggest lakes. We decided to stay there to break up the potentially long train journey from Budapest to Zagreb with a short hop on the train followed the next day by a relatively shortish bus journey, and at the same time take in the lake. It didn’t quite work out that way.

USEFUL RESOURCES – SIOFOK

Accommodation: Booking.com

Activities: Get Your Guide

Flights: Skyscanner

Trains: Rail Europe

Bus: FlixBus

Car Hire: AutoEurope

Siofok – Also For The Young At Heart

Siofok is a small town, renowned for its summer clubbing scene, but this being still out of season we weren’t too worried about being swept up in a chaotic maelstrom of drum’n’bass.

This time of year, like many small resorts it was very quiet (although the signs of party crowds were everywhere to be seen, mostly on faded posters from last season detailing all-night DJ sets – we have such poor timing!). Being out of season we got a good deal on a small spa hotel through booking.com. It was very quiet, I’m pretty sure there were only one or two people staying at the hotel. Still a great hotel and a nice room.

We arrived in Siofok late afternoon and after freshening up went out to seek sustenance. The bars were very quiet, some biding their time (with the shutters down) until the season started, but we found a great little restaurant, the Roxy Café, with an excellent menu.

Charlie’s Bistro – Definitely Worth a Visit

The following day we had free time to explore the town, before meeting our scheduled bus in the afternoon.

Siofok is small but perfectly formed, and, out of season, very quiet. That doesn’t mean however there is nothing to see. For a small town it has some quirky attractions, not least its famous water tower and a trail of interesting and sometimes eccentric statues around the town. We also wanted to walk near the lake, but it seemed all access to it was via the hotels on the lakeside (which were mostly still closed) and we didn’t find a path to walk along it. Maybe there is one, we just didn’t find it that day.

By early afternoon, however, rain stopped play, and we took refuge for lunch at the excellent Charlie’s Bistro which serves a revolving set menu of traditional and wholesome Hungarian food – two options each day of the week if I remember. The staff were friendly and efficient and the food was delicious and very reasonably priced – definitely worth a visit if you find yourself in this part of the world.

Suitably stuffed at Charlie’s we headed back the hotel to pick up our cases and head for the bus station.

Time For Our Annual Sprint!

For certain parts of this trip, we had booked buses with Flixbus to get us around, mostly when we were unable to travel from A to B on train which would certainly be the case when we came to Croatia.

We arrived at the bus station in plenty of time for the bus. We waited. And waited some more, but the bus didn’t arrive at the allotted time, and now nearly 20 minutes late, and unable to access its location via the Flixbus app – we had to make a quick decision: either carry on waiting for a bus that may or may not show up and try to find accommodation in town for another night and then wait all the next day to get out of town, or run like crazy to get the last train to Zagreb leaving in a couple of minutes. We opted for running like crazy.

We ran for the station, dragging our luggage behind, and hauled ourselves onto the train at that last minute – I, imagine, to onlookers, it was probably the most exciting thing that had happened all day.

The train left the station at 4.57 pm and we finally arrives in Zagreb at 10.33, five hours and 36 minutes later. If we stuck with our original plan of going straight from Budapest to Zagreb it would have taken about the same time (about 6 hours), so we didn’t really save any time – but we did get to see Siofok!

You can read the next instalment of the Grand European Tour (Zagreb to Slovakia) here.

Or for more tips and insights on Siofok please continue reading below…

Getting to Siofok

By Air: The most convenient airport to Siofok is Budapest International Airport (also known as Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport and commonly known as Ferihegy) which is easily accessible from the UK, as well as via international flights across Europe. I would recommend using Skyscanner to find flights, and, if you are flexible when you go/return using the ‘search by month’ tool to find the most economical flights. You will need to transit from the airport to Siofok, see options below.

By Train: Probably the quickest and most economical option. Siofok is accessible by train from Budapest-Deli railway station in Budapest. Depending on which service you take it’ll take approximately an hour and a half to get there. They run about every hour during the day. Check out trains to Siofok here.

By Bus: This usually takes a little longer than the train and generally is a little more expensive. Two bus companies currently run to Siofok, the Hungarian-based bus company, Volánbusz, and European operator Flixbus.

By Car: Of course, if you intend to travel around a bit you can hire a car at the airport. The transit time by car would be about one hour and twenty minutes from the airport to Siofok. Compare car hire rates here.

Where to stay in Siofok

There are many hotels in the town, so plenty of choice, but a couple worth considering are the La Riva Hotel, the lakeside hotel we stayed at. Or the Residence Hotel Balaton with Spa and pool facilities.

As we said, there is a wide range of accommodation in Siofok, so you can find some other options here.

The Top 10 Things to See and Do in Siofok

Visit Siofok Beach: Yes, there is a beach at Siofok, despite the fact that we didn’t locate it on the rainy day we had wandering around the town. Here you can swim and sunbathe on the shores Lake Balaton, which is also known as the ‘Hungarian Sea’.
Jokai Park: For a bit of nature in the town, take a stroll around the 4.6-acre Jokai Park featuring a pond and a small Japanese garden.
Siofok Water Tower: Climb to the top of the Siofok Water Tower to enjoy views of the surrounding town and Lake Balaton. This is also the location of the tourist information office.
Visit the port: Siofok has a bustling port area where you will find a range of bars and restaurants, and can also book boat tours.
Explore the local wine. Why not partake in some local wine tastings, and sample some of Hungary’s best wines?
Explore on a bicycle: Siofok has several cycle paths, so if you want to get around the area whilst taking some exercise then you could hire a bike in the town.
Boat Cruise: Why not take a boat cruise on Lake Balaton to really appreciate the towns and views along the lake shore (it is so big you’ll forget it isn’t a sea).
Walk the statue trail: This is a great way to explore the town. There are so many statues and memorials in Siofok, that the local tourist office has currently split them into 3 walking routes (Destinies Cast in Metal, Downtown Walk and For Art Lovers) and you can pick up a route map from the tourist office located at the Water Tower in the centre of town.
Change your perspective at the Fordított Ház (The Upside-down house): This one will mess with your head, an interesting attraction in Siofok, this completely upside-down house is fun for all ages.
Visit the Mineral Museum: One for amateur geologists, the Siofok Mineral Museum, where you can explore subterranean relics from around the globe.

It is worth noting that since Siofok is a resort town, some of the above activities may be seasonal, so always worth checking with the local tourist office.

Top Tips – Siofok

Use Omio to compare buses versus trains, very useful.

You’ll also find more useful still on our resources page.

Staying Safe

Hungary is a generally safe country for tourists. Crimes of violence against visitors are rare, but petty theft and pickpocketing do occur especially in crowded tourist spots or busy public transport. So keep your valuables safe and out of sight.

If you have an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

The post Siofok: A Resort Town on Lake Balaton in Hungary – Grand European Tour Part 7 appeared first on Destination Someplace.

Szentendre: A Town on the Danube, Near Budapest, Hungary – Grand European Tour Part 6

SSomewhere — Fri, 28 Jul 2023 15:40:03 +0000

Grand European Tour – By the Banks of the Blue Danube

This is one in a series of blog posts detailing our 10-county trip around Europe on trains, buses, cars and ferries. All the posts highlight what we got up to (hopefully, without the boring bits) along with some tips and helpful overviews should you wish to visit the destinations. This post focuses on the Hungarian town of Szentendre. You can see all the posts from this trip here.

After visiting family in Slovakia, we retraced our steps the following day back towards Budapest to drop off the rental car, but before that, we had decided to overnight in the charming little town of Szentendre (‘St Andrew’ in Hungarian), located off the banks of the Danube, just north of the capital itself (so perfect for a day trip if you are staying in Budapest).

Following an uneventful drive from the Slovakian border with arrived in Szentendre mid Sunday afternoon. And after the satnav had falsely claimed ‘we had arrived at our destination’, and basically directed us into a makeshift car park* that was more tree roots and trees than parking spaces, we finally located our accommodation for the night.

* Note: Two months later back in the UK, we received notification of a parking fine of around fifty euros for that ten-minute stop in that car park to get our bearings – lesson learned – always pay for the parking, even if we are not going to be in the car park for more than a few minutes. Oh well!

This post may contain affiliate links to things like hotels, tours or products. These help us earn a small commission at no additional charge to you and helps keep the lights on at Destination Someplace.

OTHER USEFUL RESOURCES – SZENTENDRE

Accommodation: Booking.com

Activities: Get Your Guide

Flights: Skyscanner

Trains: Rail Europe

Bus: FlixBus

Car Hire: AutoEurope

Szentendre – Hungarian Hotspot

Szentendre was packed, and very obviously popular with locals and tourists alike, so parking and, indeed, threading our way carefully through the throngs of day-tripping families was a challenge.

Once ensconced in our digs we set off for a little explore. This little-known gem is a perfect walking town, not too small and not too big and lots of little winding cobbled streets to explore, flanked by pastel-coloured houses and with enough souvenir shops and restaurants to keep the hungry and the curious satisfied for a few hours. Marzipan is a big deal in Szentendre, and features heavily in lots of the shops, so a great place to pick some up if that’s your thing.

As the afternoon wore on, after a local beer at one of the many bars in the town and deciding what looked like a good place to eat in the evening, we took a stroll along the riverside which was serene and very relaxing.

Breaking News -Population Abducted by Aliens!

Later, in the evening about 7pm, after a freshen up, we headed back out for dinner. What a contrast! The streets were deserted, the shops were closed, as were most of the bars and restaurants, and there was not a tourist in sight. We had been lulled by a beautiful Spring day into thinking that the holiday season was truly underway, but obviously, the middle of April was still pretty quiet for this little town.

All the visitors that had flocked here today had been day-trippers enjoying the Sunday sunshine and had swiftly returned back to Budapest and the surrounding towns.

Most of the restaurants we had previously scoped out were now closed, but we managed to find one on our list that was still operating, the Korona Restaurant (the oldest in Szentendre that has been in operation for 200 years). We were the only customers, aside from a couple of German cyclists having a beer. Needless to say we had no issues getting served.

On this evening we went traditional with me going for the Budapest-style pork tenderloin – all delicious, all accompanied by some Transylvanian beer (we couldn’t resist).

Hungarian Folk Music – A Private Performance

The staff at the restaurant were great, friendly and knowledgeable. As the evening wore on three besuited, serious-looking guys wondered in, looked nonchalantly around the empty restaurant and then casually started picking the odd note out of some instruments that were, just as casually, lying around.

After some minutes, the most serious of this crew lifted his baleful gaze to us, and without any signal at all the trio burst into full-on performance mode, playing some semi-familiar classics mixed with some typical Hungarian folk tunes. They were absolutely fantastic, especially the serious violinist, who I’m pretty sure had made some kind of pact with the Devil at a crossroads somewhere to gain his musical skills.

So, in spite of the lack of other human company, we had a really good evening, great food and great music – who can ask for more?

You’ll find the next instalment of the Grand European Tour here.

Or for more tips and insights on Szentendre please continue reading below…

Getting to Szentendre

There are several options to getting to Szentendre, by far the easiest are from nearby Budapest where you can pick up tours to the town, often incorporating the Danube Bend and/or Visegrád Citadel. These are great if you are only in the area for a few days and want to see the main sights outside of Budapest.

If an organised tour is not your thing then these are the other main options:

By Train: You can take the suburban railway line HÉV H5 from Batthyány tér (train station). It takes about 40-45 minutes and leaves every 20 minutes from Budapest. You can buy your ticket in the station at the booths or at the purple ticket machines. Like most countries in Europe you will need to validate (date/time stamp) your ticket before boarding – do this at the yellow machines dotted around the station – if you don’t validate your ticket you will be fined.

By Taxi: Another option would be to take a taxi, it would take around 25 mins to get there, depending on the traffic.

By car: For maximum flexibility and to enable you to explore the surrounding areas you could always hire a car in Budapest (as we did) to travel to Szentendre.

Top Tips – Szentendre

Use Omio to compare buses versus trains, for getting around this area, very useful.

Check our resources page for more budget tips and discounts from our days in transit!

Where to stay in Szentendre

Here are a few accommodation options for a stay in Szentendre.

A couple of hotels worth considering are Centrum Hotel which is located just across from the promenade and where we stayed on this visit, or the equally well-located Bükkös Hotel & Spa.

The Top 10 Things to See and Do in Szentendre

Explore the Old Town: Take the time to wander through the picturesque cobbled streets of the Old Town, lined with colourful buildings, art galleries (Szentendre has a thriving artistic community which gives the town a laid-back vibe), and craft shops. The Baroque and Rococo architecture adds to the town’s unique old-world atmosphere.
Visit the Hungarian Open Air Museum (Skanzen): Founded in 1967, this open-air museum shows Carpathian folk architecture and life in various regions of Hungary. Located on the outskirts of Szentendre, Skanzen is a great place to learn about the country’s rural heritage and culture.
Szentendre Art Museums: The town is known for its vibrant artistic community, so make sure to visit some of the various art museums and galleries. Some notable ones include the Ferenczy Museum Center, Margit Kovács Ceramic Museum, and the Kovács Margit Museum. Or if cars and nostalgia are more your thing, a visit to back to the 70s at the Retro Design Center, might be more your thing, where you’ll find a selection of vehicles from the communist era.
Blagovestenska Church: This Serbian Orthodox church, dating from 1752, is a significant religious site in Szentendre, an architectural gem with beautiful frescoes and interesting history. Simple on the outside, impressive on the inside.
Main Square (Fő tér): The main square is the heart of Szentendre. Relax at one of the cafes, enjoy street performances, and admire the beautiful architecture surrounding the square.
Danube River Promenade: Like we did, why not take a leisurely stroll along the Danube River, enjoy the views of the river, and perhaps find a spot to have a picnic if the weather is good?
Marzipan Museum: Marzipan is a traditional Hungarian sweet, and the Marzipan Museum showcases incredible marzipan sculptures and artwork. It’s a fun and unique experience for visitors of all ages.
Visegrád Citadel/Castle: While not in Szentendre itself, Visegrád Castle is nearby and worth a visit. This medieval fortress offers breathtaking views of the Danube Bend and the surrounding countryside.
Wine Tasting: Hungary has a rich wine culture, and you can enjoy wine tasting at local cellars and wineries in and around Szentendre.
River Cruises: Consider taking a boat cruise on the Danube River to see the region from a different perspective and capture stunning views along this iconic river.

Staying Safe

Hungary is a generally safe country. Crimes of violence against visitors are rare, but like many major cities petty theft and pickpocketing do occur especially in crowded tourist spots or busy public transport. So keep your valuables safe and out of sight.

If you have an emergency, dial 112 for assistance.

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